The Przemyśl Fortress and Kalwaria Pacławska: how to visit the forts and the Podkarpacie Jerusalem

The Przemyśl Fortress: an Austro-Hungarian ring of forts

The Przemyśl Fortress is not a single site but a whole system of several dozen forts and defensive works scattered in a ring around the city, built by Austria-Hungary from the second half of the nineteenth century. In the First World War it was the scene of a long and bloody siege, one of the most important on the Eastern Front. Today some of the forts can be visited, while others stand abandoned in the woods, slowly being overgrown. It is a treat for lovers of history and military heritage, and at the same time an unusual kind of walk with a view.

The scale of the layout is still striking today. At its peak the fortress numbered several dozen main and auxiliary forts, linked by roads and defensive lines and manned by a huge garrison. During the war the city changed hands, endured a months-long siege and famine, and many of the fortifications were blown up. What remains forms an open-air museum of history scattered across the woods and hills, the like of which you will not find in many places in Poland.

Which forts to see

To begin with, it is best to pick one or two of the best-preserved and accessible sites rather than chasing after them all. Popular choices are Fort XIII Ostrów and the forts around Siedliska, where distinctive concrete and brick structures, armoured turrets and the remains of barracks have survived. It is worth checking before you set off which sites are currently open to visitors and whether a local guide is available, as some forts can be explored on your own around the grounds, while others are only accessible with a guardian or as part of organised entries. For two sites with the drives between them, set aside about half a day.

A big plus of such a visit is that it combines history with movement in the fresh air. The forts often sit on rises, so alongside the military curiosity you also get views over the San valley and the surrounding hills. If you are interested in the First World War, the Eastern Front, or simply defensive engineering from a century ago, the Przemyśl Fortress can draw you in for longer than you expect.

Kalwaria Pacławska: the Podkarpacie Jerusalem

Kalwaria Pacławska lies on picturesque hills to the south of Przemyśl, close to the border. It is a Baroque Franciscan monastery complex with a basilica and chapels of the Calvary paths spread across the surrounding hills, laid out to mirror the topography of Jerusalem, hence the nickname of the Podkarpacie Jerusalem. It was founded in the seventeenth century by the Fredro family, and among the monastery's treasures is a miraculous image of the Mother of God. It is one of the most important Marian sanctuaries in the region and the destination of great feasts that draw crowds of pilgrims.

Even if you are not coming for religious reasons, it is simply a peaceful, beautiful place with sweeping views over the borderland and the wooded hills. A walk along the paths between the chapels combines the spiritual and the scenic: you go from chapel to chapel along forest tracks, and every so often a new view opens up. It is a rest quite different in character from touring the forts, which is why the two places complement each other so nicely in a single day.

How to plan the day and how to get there

It is best to start in the morning with the forts of the Przemyśl Fortress, when it is cooler and less crowded, then drive in the afternoon to Kalwaria Pacławska for a relaxed visit to the sanctuary and the paths in gentler light. Kalwaria is about twenty-five kilometres from Przemyśl along roads through undulating terrain, so getting there by public transport can be awkward. The easiest way to take in both threads is a private transfer with a driver who knows the local roads. The price is fixed, agreed in advance per car, child seats are included, and there are no extra charges for waiting at a fort or the sanctuary.

Worth combining with Przemyśl itself

If you still have energy after the forts and Kalwaria, Przemyśl itself rounds off the day perfectly. It is one of the oldest towns in Poland, with a picturesquely set old town, a clock tower, a castle hill and views over the San. An evening stroll around the market square and dinner in one of the townhouses is a good way to unwind after intense sightseeing. In this way you combine three faces of the region in a single day: the military history of the fortress, the spiritual calm of the sanctuary and the everyday charm of a Podkarpacie town.

Practical tips

For the forts, take comfortable, closed shoes and something for the dirt, as the ground can be muddy and the interiors damp and dark, so a torch or a phone with a good battery will come in handy. At the sanctuary in Kalwaria, dress appropriately for a place of worship, and during services and feasts part of the space may be taken up by pilgrims. Bring water and a snack, as between the sites you will not always find open catering, especially out of season. Current rates for routes around Przemyśl are in the Przemyśl pricing, and you can book the trips themselves on the Przemyśl routes page.

Frequently asked questions